Dear pilgrim,
Hello from Kōchi!
I'm writing from Guesthouse Bonito and I'm enjoying some mulberry leaf tea that I got the other day at the market in Hiwasa.
Week 2 began with a 39-degree fever and a body full of aches. I took a little trip to the hospital and was diagnosed with influenza A. Everyone was so sweet and caring! I received medication that was super efficient. I don't usually take many medicines, but since I had tonsillitis recently for over 2 weeks, and now I'm walking every day, I decided to be flexible and try something different.
The son of the guesthouse owner in Hiwasa picked me up from the hospital. And instead of taking me to my room, they took me to a separate traditional house they also own, and let me stay there on my own. He took me to buy local organic vegetables and helped me settle in. So kind.
At the end of that same day, I visited Temple 23, Yakuōji, the Medicine King temple. Its main deity is Yakushi Nyorai, the Medicine Buddha, and people have long come here to be freed from sickness and hardship. Kōbō Daishi is said to have carved the statue in 815, praying for protection for himself and for everyone.
That day I also reached the Pacific Ocean! It felt so good to stay next to the water, about the same distance from it as my own house in Portugal. It felt like being right at home.
I stayed two nights in that little house, resting and making miso soup. The medicine kicked in, the fever went down, and that cozy house in Hiwasa really held me and healed me.
After resting, I went on to Shishikui to explore Mitoko Bay, with its small islands in clear water, and to soak in the local onsen.
Then I crossed into Kōchi prefecture. Previously, Tokushima prefecture was the dōjō of awakening, hosshin. Now I've entered the dōjō of ascetic practice, shugyō (修行), the discipline of the path. It begins with the walk to Temple 24, to the tip of Cape Muroto.
Because I come to Japan so often, there are so many things I love doing here, people I'd love to see, and other parts of the country I'd love to be in. And buses and trains are always so easily available. I knew that at times I would wish to leave the path and go do other things. This is one of the reasons I planned all my accommodation. Having my rooms booked helps me keep walking in slow mode, and stay true to the rhythm of the pilgrimage.
This section is about discipline, and the last three decades on the spiritual path have helped me understand the importance of finding ways that support me in staying on the path, in keeping the discipline when other things will be fighting for my attention.
After healing from the flu, I was back on the henro path, still tired, my body still asking for rest. And another uphill was coming! I was so glad to have enough energy to take the mountain path to Temple 27.
I've enjoyed the temples this week so much! And Temple 31, Chikurinji, took me completely by surprise, such a big and beautiful complex.
As I walk here in the dōjō of discipline, I keep thinking back to that little house in Hiwasa, where rest was the path.
✨
A question for you to sit with: When has rest been the practice that was asked of you?
For now, I can hardly believe that 1/3 of the path is already walked!! And I’m excited for week 3 😊 where I have plenty of rest planned ☺️🙏🏽
As always, I'm praying as I walk, and you are in my prayers 🩵
With much love,
Rita
P.S. If you'd like to walk with me by offering osettai ✨🍃🙏🏽 you can do so via Wise (@ritat190) or PayPal (ritatojal@gmail.com).
